Dextran
Humectant and skin conditioning polymer
About Dextran
Dextran is a complex polysaccharide polymer derived from glucose through bacterial fermentation, primarily from the Leuconostoc mesenteroides bacterium. In K-beauty formulations, it functions as both a humectant and skin conditioning agent, forming a lightweight, breathable film on the skin's surface that helps retain moisture without clogging pores. This biocompatible polymer has gained significant traction in premium Korean skincare, particularly in anti-aging and lifting products, due to its ability to improve product texture while delivering real functional benefits. With a comedogenic rating of 0/5 and a safety rating of 4/5, dextran is considered exceptionally safe for all skin types. Its presence in 36 K-beauty products on Seoul Sister, including top-rated formulas like MISSHA's Atelo Collagen Emulsion and Numbuzin's No. 9 NAD Bio Lifting-sil Essence, reflects its growing importance in sophisticated Korean formulations. Unlike simpler humectants that just attract water, dextran offers multifunctional benefits including enhanced product stability, improved sensory feel, and potential skin barrier support. It works synergistically with other active ingredients, making it a favorite in complex K-beauty serums and essences that layer multiple technologies.
How Dextran Works
Dextran functions through multiple complementary mechanisms at the skin level. As a high molecular weight polysaccharide, it creates a flexible hydrophilic matrix on the skin's surface that attracts and binds water molecules from both the environment and deeper skin layers, providing sustained hydration over several hours. This polymer network doesn't just sit on top of the skin but interacts with the stratum corneum to form a semi-occlusive barrier that reduces transepidermal water loss while remaining breathable. At a molecular level, dextran's glucose-based structure is recognized by the skin as biocompatible, minimizing the risk of irritation or immune response. The polymer also acts as a penetration enhancer for other active ingredients by temporarily modifying the lipid structure of the skin barrier, allowing beneficial compounds to reach deeper layers more effectively. Additionally, dextran exhibits film-forming properties that provide an immediate tightening sensation, which explains its popularity in lifting and firming products like Bioheal BOH's Probioderm 3D Lifting line, where it contributes to both instant and long-term visible results.
Dextran by Skin Type
Oily Skin
Dextran is surprisingly beneficial for oily skin despite being a humectant. Its lightweight, non-greasy film-forming property provides hydration without adding heaviness or shine, and its 0/5 comedogenic rating means it won't contribute to clogged pores or breakouts. The breathable moisture barrier it creates helps balance oil production by ensuring skin doesn't overcompensate for dehydration.
Dry Skin
This is where dextran truly shines. Its ability to attract and retain moisture makes it ideal for dehydrated skin, while its film-forming properties create a protective layer that prevents moisture loss throughout the day. Products like MISSHA's Atelo Collagen Emulsion leverage dextran's sustained hydration delivery to combat the tight, flaky feeling associated with dry skin types.
Combo Skin
Dextran's versatile nature makes it perfect for combination skin. It provides targeted hydration where needed without overloading oily zones, and its lightweight texture absorbs quickly without leaving residue. The polymer adjusts to different moisture levels across facial zones, making it a smart choice for products designed to work across varying skin conditions on the same face.
Sensitive Skin
With its high safety rating (4/5) and biocompatible structure derived from natural fermentation, dextran is generally well-tolerated by sensitive skin. Its protective film can help shield compromised barriers from environmental irritants while supporting hydration, though those with extreme sensitivities should always patch test, particularly in complex formulations like Sungboon Editor's peptide-rich ampoules.
Normal Skin
Normal skin benefits from dextran's balanced approach to hydration and conditioning. It maintains the skin's natural moisture equilibrium without disruption, while its anti-aging and firming properties (as seen in products like Numbuzin's No. 9 NAD Bio Lifting-sil Essence) help preserve skin quality over time without overwhelming it with unnecessary intervention.
How to Use Dextran
- 1Layer dextran-containing products after water-based serums but before heavier creams, as the polymer creates a semi-occlusive film that can affect absorption of subsequent products if applied too late in your routine.
- 2Dextran works synergistically with peptides, NAD+, and collagen (as evidenced by top-rated products combining these ingredients), so look for formulations that pair it with complementary anti-aging actives for maximum lifting and firming benefits.
- 3Apply to damp skin when using dextran-heavy toners or essences like Bioheal BOH's Probioderm 3D Lifting Essential Toner to maximize its humectant properties and help it draw more moisture into the skin barrier.
- 4Dextran's film-forming effect provides an excellent base for makeup application, creating a smooth canvas that helps foundation glide on evenly, so consider using dextran-containing products as the final step before makeup.
Background
Dextran was first discovered in 1861 by French scientist Louis Pasteur, who observed a slimy substance forming in spoiled wine and beet sugar solutions. This substance was later identified as a polysaccharide produced by Leuconostoc bacteria during fermentation. Initially developed for medical applications in the 1940s as a blood plasma volume expander during World War II, dextran's biocompatibility and unique properties eventually caught the attention of the cosmetics industry. Korean skincare brands began incorporating it into formulations in the 2010s as part of the K-beauty industry's shift toward biotechnology and fermentation-based ingredients. Its adoption accelerated as brands like MISSHA and Bioheal BOH explored advanced anti-aging technologies, recognizing that dextran's combination of humectant, film-forming, and penetration-enhancing properties made it ideal for sophisticated multi-functional products that deliver both immediate and long-term results.
K-Beauty Products with Dextran
View all 36 →
No. 9 NAD Bio Lifting-sil Essence
Numbuzin
Silk Peptide EGF Heart Fit Volume Lifting Ampoule Double Pack
Sungboon Editor
Probioderm 3D Lifting Essential Toner
Bioheal BOH
Probioderm 3D Lifting Eye & Wrinkle Cream Double Pack
Bioheal BOH
Probioderm 3D Lifting Cream
Bioheal BOH
No. 9 NAD PDRN Glow Treatment Toner
Numbuzin
The Peptide Lifting Glow Set
COSRX
Probioderm 3D Lifting Ampoule
Bioheal BOH
No. 9 NAD Ultimate Lifting Set
Numbuzin
Probioderm 3D Lifting Skincare 3P Set
Bioheal BOH
Exo-V Plus Ampoule
Idplacosmetic
Probioderm 3D Lifting Cream Mist
Bioheal BOH
Frequently Asked Questions
Is dextran the same as dextrose or glucose?▼
Why is dextran in so many high-end lifting products?▼
Can dextran cause any skin reactions or conflicts with other ingredients?▼
Does dextran work better in toners or serums?▼
Explore More
Want personalized ingredient advice?
Yuri, our AI beauty advisor, can analyze how Dextran works with your specific skin type, routine, and concerns.
Try Seoul Sister Pro