Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
Peptide that promotes eyelash and eyebrow growth
About Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 is a synthetic peptide that has gained attention in K-beauty for its ability to enhance the growth and appearance of eyelashes and eyebrows, though it's increasingly found in facial skincare formulations for its hair follicle-stimulating properties. This lipopeptide consists of five amino acids attached to a myristic acid chain, which helps the ingredient penetrate the skin barrier more effectively. Originally developed for lash serums, Korean beauty brands have cleverly incorporated it into eye creams, toners, and ampoules to support not just lash growth but also the fine vellus hairs on the face that contribute to skin texture and firmness. On Seoul Sister, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 appears in 14 products with an impressive average rating, particularly in premium lines like Numbuzin's No. 9 NAD series. The ingredient works by stimulating keratin genes in hair follicles, promoting both the length and thickness of hair fibers. While its primary claim to fame is lash enhancement, K-beauty formulators appreciate its gentle profile (comedogenic rating of 0/5) and its synergy with other anti-aging actives like NAD+ and retinoids. Unlike prostaglandin analogs used in prescription lash serums, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 offers a safer alternative with fewer side effects, making it suitable for the delicate eye area and facial application. Its presence in top-rated products from Numbuzin and Sungboon Editor demonstrates how K-beauty continues to innovate by repurposing specialized ingredients for multi-functional benefits.
How Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 Works
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 functions by penetrating the hair follicle and binding to specific receptors on keratinocyte cells, the primary cells that produce keratin, the structural protein in hair. The myristic acid tail acts as a lipid carrier, allowing the peptide to cross cell membranes more efficiently than water-soluble peptides alone. Once inside, it upregulates the expression of keratin genes, particularly those responsible for the anagen (growth) phase of the hair cycle. This stimulation increases both the duration of the growth phase and the diameter of individual hair shafts, resulting in longer, thicker lashes or more defined eyebrows. The peptide also appears to protect follicular cells from apoptosis (programmed cell death), extending the functional life of each hair follicle. When applied to facial skin, particularly around the eyes, it may enhance the fine vellus hairs that contribute to skin texture while supporting the dermal matrix through increased cellular activity. The ingredient's mechanism is gentler than hormonal pathways, working through direct cellular signaling rather than prostaglandin manipulation, which explains its excellent safety profile and lack of the pigmentation or irritation issues associated with some prescription lash treatments.
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 by Skin Type
Oily Skin
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 is excellent for oily skin types, particularly around the eye area where you might hesitate to use richer products. With a comedogenic rating of 0/5, it won't clog pores or contribute to milia, which can be a concern with heavy eye creams. In toners like Numbuzin's NAD PDRN Glow Treatment Toner, it delivers follicle-stimulating benefits without adding unwanted oil.
Dry Skin
This peptide works beautifully for dry skin, especially when formulated into hydrating eye creams and ampoules like those in the Numbuzin No. 9 NAD series. The myristic acid component provides mild emollient properties that support the skin barrier without feeling heavy. Dry skin types often experience thinning lashes and brows due to overall dehydration, making this ingredient particularly beneficial for restoring fullness.
Combo Skin
Combination skin benefits from Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17's versatility, as it delivers active results without disrupting the oil-water balance. Whether applied in a lightweight toner on the T-zone or a richer eye cream on drier areas, its non-comedogenic profile means you can use it across your entire face without concern. The ingredient's presence in multi-step products allows for flexible layering based on your skin's daily needs.
Sensitive Skin
With a safety rating of 4/5, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 is generally well-tolerated by sensitive skin, particularly compared to more aggressive lash growth ingredients like prostaglandin analogs. Its gentle mechanism of action makes it suitable for the delicate eye area without causing irritation or redness. However, if you're extremely reactive, patch test products first, especially formulations that combine it with retinoids like Numbuzin's RetinA Volume Shot Eye Cream.
Normal Skin
Normal skin types can take full advantage of Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17's benefits without concern. Whether you're using it specifically for lash enhancement in an eye cream or as part of a comprehensive anti-aging routine in ampoules and toners, your balanced skin will tolerate the ingredient well. Consider incorporating it into your evening routine for optimal follicle stimulation overnight, when cellular repair processes are most active.
How to Use Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
- 1Apply products containing Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 consistently for at least 8-12 weeks to see visible results in lash and brow growth, as the hair growth cycle requires time to respond to follicular stimulation.
- 2Layer this peptide under your regular eye cream or use it in a dedicated toner before other actives to maximize penetration, the myristic acid component enhances absorption of subsequent products too.
- 3If using a product like Numbuzin's RetinA Volume Shot Eye Cream that combines this peptide with retinoids, start with every other night application to assess tolerance before increasing frequency.
- 4For targeted lash enhancement, apply product as close to the lash line as safely possible, using a gentle patting motion rather than rubbing to avoid irritation.
Background
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 was originally developed in the early 2000s as a cosmetic alternative to prescription lash growth treatments, which relied on prostaglandin analogs with potential side effects like iris pigmentation changes and periorbital fat loss. Cosmetic chemists synthesized this lipopeptide by combining a specific sequence of five amino acids with myristic acid, a fatty acid naturally found in nutmeg and coconut oil, to create a molecule that could stimulate keratin production without hormonal manipulation. The ingredient first appeared in Western lash serums before K-beauty brands recognized its potential for broader facial applications. Korean formulators, known for their innovative multi-functional approach, began incorporating it into eye creams, toners, and facial ampoules, capitalizing on its follicle-stimulating properties to enhance overall skin texture and appearance. The rise of "glass skin" and "dewy" trends in K-beauty aligned perfectly with ingredients that could subtly improve the fine structures of facial skin, including vellus hairs that contribute to light reflection and smoothness.
K-Beauty Products with Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
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No. 9 NAD PDRN Glow Treatment Toner
Numbuzin
No. 9 NAD RetinA Volume Shot Eye Cream
Numbuzin
Silk Peptide EGF Heart Fit Volume Lifting Ampoule
Sungboon Editor
No. 9 NAD Bio Lifting-sil Full Face Pack Sheet 4ea Set
Numbuzin
No. 9 NAD Bio Lifting-sil Full Face Pack Sheet
Numbuzin
PDRN Pink Glutathione Serum Mist
Medicube
Multi-Peptide Lash and Brow Serum
The Ordinary
Long Active Eyelash Serum
COSNORI
Eyelash Tinting Serum (Black Eyelash Ampoule)
COSNORI
Intensive Eyelash Serum
COSNORI
Easy Eyelash Lift Kit 5 Servings
COSNORI
No. 9 NAD Collagen Overnight Selfie Patch
Numbuzin
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to see results from Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 for lash growth?▼
Can I use Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 if I'm pregnant or breastfeeding?▼
Why do K-beauty brands put this lash growth ingredient in face products?▼
Is Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 safe to use with retinol or vitamin C?▼
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