Active Ingredient

Acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor (aFGF)

INCI: SH-Polypeptide-11

Stimulates collagen production and cellular regeneration

Safety:4/5 — Very Safe

Comedogenic:0/5 — Non-comedogenic

Found in:28 products

About Acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor (aFGF)

Acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor (aFGF), listed as SH-Polypeptide-11 on ingredient labels, is a bioengineered peptide that mimics naturally occurring growth factors in human skin. In K-beauty formulations, aFGF has emerged as a powerhouse anti-aging ingredient because it directly communicates with fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. Unlike topical peptides that simply sit on the skin's surface, aFGF is designed with a smaller molecular structure that allows better penetration into the dermis where aging actually happens. Korean skincare brands have pioneered the use of aFGF in combination with other regenerative ingredients like PDRN (Polydeoxyribonucleotide) and centella asiatica, creating synergistic formulas that address multiple signs of aging simultaneously. With a safety rating of 4/5 and a comedogenic rating of 0/5, aFGF is considered safe for most skin types and won't clog pores, making it accessible to a broader audience than many other anti-aging actives. Currently found in 26 products on Seoul Sister, including top performers like Centellian24's CELLOLOGY Blue Eraser Cream (5.0/5) and Anua's Zeroca 81 Serum (4.9/5), this ingredient represents the cutting edge of K-beauty's science-driven approach to skincare. The ingredient's ability to stimulate cellular turnover means it not only addresses existing signs of aging but also helps prevent future damage by keeping skin cells functioning optimally.

How Acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor (aFGF) Works

At the cellular level, aFGF works by binding to fibroblast growth factor receptors (FGFR) on the surface of skin cells, triggering a cascade of biological signals that instruct cells to produce more collagen and elastin. When aFGF attaches to these receptors, it activates intracellular pathways involving mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK), which then travel to the cell nucleus and essentially tell your DNA to ramp up production of structural proteins. This process also stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts themselves, meaning you get more collagen-producing cells over time. Additionally, aFGF promotes angiogenesis, the formation of new blood vessels, which improves nutrient delivery to skin cells and accelerates wound healing. The peptide also enhances the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans like hyaluronic acid, which helps maintain skin hydration and plumpness. Because aFGF is biosynthetic rather than animal-derived, it's more stable in formulations and less likely to cause immune reactions. The ingredient's regenerative effects become visible after consistent use (typically 4-8 weeks), as the increased collagen production gradually improves skin texture, reduces fine lines, and enhances overall firmness.

Acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor (aFGF) by Skin Type

Oily Skin

aFGF is excellent for oily skin because its non-comedogenic formula won't clog pores or contribute to breakouts. The ingredient helps regulate sebum production indirectly by improving overall skin health and barrier function. Products like VT's PDRN Reedle Shot Eye Lifter (4.8/5) combine aFGF with lightweight textures that absorb quickly without leaving residue.

Dry Skin

Dry skin benefits significantly from aFGF's ability to stimulate hyaluronic acid production within the skin, addressing dehydration at its source rather than just adding temporary moisture. The collagen-boosting effects also help repair compromised skin barriers common in chronically dry skin. Formulas like Centellian24's CELLOLOGY Blue Eraser Cream (5.0/5) pair aFGF with rich moisturizing bases for maximum hydration.

Combo Skin

For combination skin, aFGF offers balanced benefits without disrupting the delicate equilibrium between oily and dry zones. Its cellular regeneration properties work uniformly across different areas, improving texture and tone without exacerbating oiliness in the T-zone. The non-comedogenic rating makes it safe for use all over the face, including congestion-prone areas.

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin types should introduce aFGF gradually, as the increased cellular activity can sometimes cause temporary irritation during the adjustment period. However, its regenerative properties actually help strengthen sensitive skin over time by improving barrier function. Products like Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream (4.8/5) formulate aFGF alongside soothing ingredients like centella asiatica to minimize irritation potential.

Normal Skin

Normal skin can use aFGF as a preventative anti-aging measure, maintaining optimal collagen levels before significant degradation occurs. The ingredient helps preserve skin's youthful function and appearance when started in the mid-to-late twenties. Lightweight options like Anua's Zeroca 81 Serum (4.9/5) work perfectly for normal skin that doesn't need heavy moisturization.

How to Use Acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor (aFGF)

1Apply aFGF products to slightly damp skin after cleansing and toning for better absorption, as the peptide penetrates more effectively when the skin barrier is temporarily more permeable.
2Start with once-daily application (preferably at night) for the first two weeks to let your skin adjust to the increased cellular activity, then increase to twice daily if no sensitivity occurs.
3Layer aFGF serums or creams before heavier occlusives but after watery essences, typically as the third or fourth step in your K-beauty routine to ensure proper penetration.
4Pair with vitamin C in your morning routine and retinoids at night (on alternating nights if you're new to actives) for comprehensive anti-aging benefits, though introduce new actives one at a time.
5Store aFGF products in a cool, dark place and use within six months of opening, as peptides can degrade with heat and light exposure, reducing their effectiveness over time.

Background

Fibroblast growth factors were first discovered in the 1970s during research into wound healing and tissue regeneration. Scientists identified 23 different FGF proteins in the human body, with acidic FGF (FGF-1) being one of the first characterized. Originally studied for medical applications like burn treatment and diabetic wound healing, the cosmetic potential of aFGF became apparent in the 1990s when researchers observed its remarkable ability to stimulate collagen synthesis in aging skin. Korean biotech companies pioneered the development of biosynthetic versions of aFGF in the early 2010s, using recombinant DNA technology to produce stable, vegan-friendly peptides that could be incorporated into skincare formulations. This breakthrough allowed K-beauty brands to move beyond traditional peptides and offer more targeted, scientifically advanced anti-aging solutions. The ingredient gained massive popularity in Korea around 2018-2020 as part of the "dermocosmetics" trend, where pharmaceutical-grade ingredients crossed over into premium skincare. Today, aFGF represents K-beauty's commitment to evidence-based innovation, bridging the gap between medical treatments and accessible daily skincare.

K-Beauty Products with Acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor (aFGF)

View all 28 →

Zeroca 81 Serum

Anua

serum4.9

PDRN Reedle Shot Eye Lifter

eye care4.8

No. 9 NAD PDRN Glow Treatment Toner

Numbuzin

toner4.8

No. 9 NAD RetinA Volume Shot Eye Cream

Numbuzin

eye care4.7

No. 5 Vitamin Glutathione Dark Spot Laser Cream

Numbuzin

moisturizer4.7

10 Revolution Real Eye Cream For Face

AHC

eye care4.7

Youth Lasting Real Eye Cream For Face Special Wrinkle Care Set

AHC

eye care4.7

Silk Peptide EGF Heart Fit Volume Lifting Ampoule

Sungboon Editor

ampoule4.7

Reedle Shot Synergy Repair Cream EX Plus

moisturizer4.6

No. 2 PDRN Collagen Plumping Serum

Numbuzin

serum4.6

No. 2 Rose PDRN Collagen 2X Plumping Serum

Numbuzin

serum4.5

No. 2 Rose PDRN Collagen Plumping Serum Duo

Numbuzin

serum4.2

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to see results from aFGF products?▼

Most users notice improvements in skin texture and hydration within 2-4 weeks of consistent use, but significant anti-aging effects like reduced fine lines and improved firmness typically become visible after 6-8 weeks. Products like Centellian24's CELLOLOGY Blue Eraser Cream (5.0/5) and Anua's Zeroca 81 Serum (4.9/5) show effectiveness scores reflecting results users experienced after at least one full product cycle.

Can I use aFGF with retinol or vitamin C?▼

Yes, aFGF actually works synergistically with both ingredients. Use vitamin C in the morning for antioxidant protection while aFGF stimulates collagen, and alternate retinol nights with aFGF nights if you're sensitive, or use aFGF in the morning and retinol at night once your skin is acclimated. Just introduce one active at a time, waiting 2-3 weeks between new additions to monitor your skin's response.

Is aFGF suitable for acne-prone skin?▼

Absolutely. With a comedogenic rating of 0/5, aFGF won't clog pores or trigger breakouts. In fact, its regenerative properties can help fade post-acne marks and improve skin texture. The ingredient's ability to accelerate cellular turnover may actually help prevent future breakouts by keeping pores clear, though you should still use it alongside appropriate acne treatments.

What's the difference between aFGF and other growth factors like EGF?▼

While both are growth factors, aFGF (FGF-1) specifically targets fibroblasts to stimulate collagen and elastin production in deeper skin layers, whereas EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) primarily affects surface epidermal cells and keratinocyte turnover. aFGF penetrates deeper and focuses more on structural anti-aging, making it particularly effective for firmness and wrinkle reduction rather than just surface texture improvements.

Are there any ingredients that conflict with aFGF?▼

aFGF is generally compatible with most ingredients, but avoid using it simultaneously with high concentrations of AHAs or BHAs (over 10%) as the low pH can potentially destabilize the peptide structure. If you use strong chemical exfoliants, apply them at a different time of day than your aFGF products. The ingredient works beautifully with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and soothing agents like centella, as seen in products like Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream (4.8/5).

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